Marni’s creative director, Francesco Risso, recently gave his unique take on what he thinks fashion will look like after the pandemic. The designer sat down with Fashion businessby Tim Blanks to give a retrospective of his January 2020 men’s show and discuss the inspirations behind his collection.
During conversation, Risso discusses his use of choreography to tell the story of his collections when presenting his designs on a catwalk. Risso shares that the process of creating the show is often what he finds most moving as he explains that the men’s fashion show drew a lot of inspiration from “the strong interaction with bodies and that language that goes beyond that. words”. The women’s clothing collection, on the other hand, focused on “manufacturing [everything] with our hands ”, a commentary on the importance of craftsmanship in fashion.
Tim Blanks calls the shows one of the most “memorable,” as Risso also explains that he thinks the industry’s traditional idea of overproduced and lavish runways is now unnecessary. With COVID, it showed Risso that “the idea of sitting down to a show and in those words I find it very redundant.” Risso calls the era of the pandemic a learning opportunity and finds the experience something everyone must apply to move forward. He alludes to the fact that he has never seen fashion communicate with its audience in this way, or be “filmed the way it has been filmed for the past two years”.
Risso comments on changes to runways after the pandemic, urging the industry not to overlook how fashion has now evolved. According to the creative director, he believes this calls for a more permanent change in the fashion calendar and a reduction in the number of collections that come out per year. The designer also reflects on ideals of simplicity and encourages the industry to reconnect and celebrate small successes. Speaking of Marni in particular, Risso shares, “I think it really forced us to focus on the authenticity of our ideas and also celebrate them at some point… we [celebrated] in a very light and primitive way.
In other fashion news, Hermès revealed that sales have returned to pre-pandemic levels.